Baby’s First Birthday in Taiwan

April 22, 2025July 26, 2025 / Joel Malcolm Witherington / Leave a comment

A child’s first year marks not just their beginning,

but the unfolding of a universe previously unknown.

I’m sure most people would agree that having a child turn one marks a significant milestone in their life journey and is definitely something to be proud of as a parent.

While the first year of a baby’s life is great, let’s be honest: It is mostly just drinking milk, sleeping, and getting used to some basic bodily functions. I’m sure there’s a different timeline for every child, but when they get close to the year mark, I believe that you can really see their unique personality start to develop.

In different countries, a child’s first birthday is celebrated with varying practices that reflect values, traditions, and familial hopes for the child’s future. In Taiwan, the celebration of a child’s first birthday can hold profound cultural significance, featuring unique customs that have been preserved for generations.

Both of my boys have celebrated their first birthdays in Taiwan, and while we are not a very traditional family, we did host amazing celebrations each time. This post will examine an interesting historical tradition associated with a child’s first birthday, as well as share the fun that we have had.

The History of First Birthday Celebrations in Taiwan

A ceremony called Jah-Joe (抓週 – written in Pinyin as Zhuazhou) boasts a rich historical lineage stretching back over two millennia in Chinese culture, which has been preserved in Taiwanese traditions.

The practice originated during the Three Kingdoms period (220-280 CE), when families would place various objects before a one-year-old child to gain insight into their future inclinations.

Throughout the centuries, as dynasties rose and fell across China, this tradition evolved but maintained its core essence. When Chinese immigrants settled in Taiwan, particularly during the Ming and Qing dynasties, they brought this cultural practice with them.

Despite Taiwan’s complex political history, this ceremony has remained a steadfast element of Taiwanese cultural identity. Every time I have been to a child’s first birthday, this ceremony has been done, and we were sure to include it in both our boys’ birthdays.

Understanding the Ceremony: A Glimpse into a Child’s Future

It is remarkable how this tradition, like so many others in Taiwan, has adapted while preserving its essential meaning. Families continue to honor this ancient practice, viewing it as a meaningful connection to their cultural roots and an opportunity to gather in celebration of new life.

The Meaning Behind the Name

The term Jah-Joe (抓周) combines two Chinese characters that encapsulate the ceremony’s purpose: Jah (抓) means to grab or to seize, while Joe (周) refers to an anniversary or cycle.

There is a metaphysical underpinning of the tradition – the belief that even at such a young age, a child’s natural tendencies might manifest through their choices, guided perhaps by fate, gods, or innate disposition.

Traditional Items and Their Symbolic Meanings

The ceremony centers around a carefully curated collection of objects, each with a symbolic significance. These items represent different professions, skills, or life outcomes that the child might pursue or experience.

Some of the common traditional items include:

Abacus: Mathematical aptitude and potential success in business, finance, or commerce. A child who chooses the abacus might grow up to be financially astute or possess strong numerical abilities.
Calligraphy brush: Literary talent, artistic ability, or scholarly pursuits. In traditional Chinese culture, scholars were highly respected, making this a particularly auspicious choice.
Book: Educational achievement and wisdom. This choice suggests the child may excel academically or pursue knowledge-intensive professions.
Stethoscope or medicine container: Healthcare, suggesting the child might have a future in medicine, healing, or caregiving professions.
Green onion: In Mandarin, green onion – tsong (蔥) sounds very similar to intelligence (聰), making this item a symbol of cleverness and quick-wittedness.
Camera: Perception and artistic vision. Beyond the obvious connotation that the child may be a photographer or filmmaker, the camera symbolizes the act of capturing moments and preserving memories in any form.
Rice or glutinous rice ball: Abundance, never going hungry, and prosperity throughout life.
Chicken leg or meat: Physical strength, good health, and a life free from want.
Coin or money: Wealth and financial security.
Ruler or measuring tape: Precision, attention to detail, and potential careers in design, architecture, or engineering.
Seal or stamp: Traditionally symbolizing governmental positions or authority, reflecting the prestige associated with civil service in historical Chinese society.
Musical instrument: Artistic talent and potential success in the performing arts.

Families often customize these items based on their values, aspirations for the child, or regional variations of the tradition. Some may include items that represent family businesses or professions, creating a more personalized experience.

Right before Isaiah picked his items, I sneakily added a toy cap gun. This was largely ignored by both my son and the guests, so I didn’t repeat the prank at Leon’s party (actually, I just couldn’t find the toy gun).

The Process: From Preparation to Interpretation

You’ve probably gotten the gist of it now; it is neither a difficult nor an elaborate process:

1. Arrange the items in a circle.

2. Prepare the child for all the fun they are about to have.

3. Herd the child toward the circle.

4. Let the selection begin!

Our kids picked three things each; I believe some people do more or less.

Isaiah chose the abacus first, showed a bit of interest in the piano/keyboard, and then moved on to grab the camera and the book.

Leon also chose the abacus first. Then, he picked up the microphone and the airplane while showing some interest in the artists palette.

For those of you who want to learn more about the traditional ceremony, read on. For those of you more interested in what we got up to, skip ahead to the next section.

The Jah-Joe ceremony traditionally follows a structured process that enhances its ritual significance:

Preparation: Families select a propitious time for the ceremony, often consulting traditional calendars or fortune tellers. The venue is usually the family home, particularly the living room or a specially designated area, though modern families sometimes opt for specialized cultural centers or restaurants.
Arrangement: The selected items are arranged on a clean mat or table, usually in a circular pattern to symbolize completeness. Red, the color of good fortune in Chinese culture, often features prominently in decorations.
The Selection: The one-year-old child is placed in the center of the arranged items. Family members gather around, often creating an encouraging atmosphere with gentle prompting. The first item (or sometimes three items) that the child reaches for and grasps is considered most significant.
Interpretation and Celebration: Once the child makes their selection, family members respond with excitement and discuss the implications of the chosen item(s). This moment is filled with joy, laughter, and sometimes playful debate about what the choice might mean for the child’s future.
Documentation: In contemporary celebrations, the entire process is usually photographed or recorded, creating lasting memories of this cultural milestone. In the past, the results were often written down.

The interpretation of the child’s choices can be both serious and lighthearted – while members of the older generation might genuinely believe in the predictive aspects of the ceremony, there’s also an understanding that the child’s future remains open to many possibilities. We didn’t have any seniors at either of the parties, so we did it just for fun.

Evolution of Venues and Settings

While traditionally held in family homes (or in our case, the local park). There has been an emergence of specialized venues for Jah-Joe ceremonies. Cultural centers like the Luzhou Lee Heritage Residence in New Taipei City offer authentic settings for families wishing to perform the ritual in a traditional environment. These venues often provide guidance on the proper arrangement of items and may include educational components about the ceremony’s historical significance.

Upscale restaurants and hotels have also begun offering Jah-Joe as part of comprehensive first birthday celebration services, combining the traditional ceremony with modern party elements.

The Taipei Zoo even hosted one of these ceremonies for its new baby panda.

Contemporary Items Reflecting Modern Professions

As already mentioned, the selection of objects that the child can choose from often varies from family to family. Modern additions often reflect contemporary career paths and societal values.

Calculator or computer mouse: Representing careers in technology, programming, or digital industries.
Sports equipment: Symbolizing athletic talents and potential careers in sports.
Microphone: Suggesting public speaking abilities, broadcasting, or careers in communication.
Airplane or globe: Symbolizing a future involving travel, exploration, or international relations.
Paintbrush or art supplies: Indicating creative talents beyond traditional calligraphy.

Family Stories and Predictions Come True

Many Taiwanese families treasure stories about the predictions made during Jah-Joe that seemed to foreshadow their children’s actual life paths. A common narrative involves the child who grabbed a stethoscope and later became a doctor, the one who selected a calligraphy brush and went on to be a published author, etc.

My mom, who was at Isaiah’s first birthday, was extremely happy that he picked the abacus. She was equally impressed when she heard Leon did as well. Whether they become accountants or not, it is nice to think that they might follow in her footsteps.

Contemporary parents in Taiwan often approach the ceremony with a blend of cultural respect and modern skepticism. Many perform the ceremony out of appreciation for tradition rather than strict belief in its predictive powers. This pragmatic yet respectful approach typifies how many young Taiwanese families engage with traditional practices in the 21st century.

The narratives created from this first birthday ceremony, whether coincidental or truly predictive, become part of a family’s story and reinforce the cultural significance of the tradition. In the end, isn’t all just about good family stories?

There are other Taiwanese birthday traditions, but I’ll save those for another post. Time to continue with more fun stuff.

The Witherington Way

Even though we don’t strictly follow tradition, we did want to have a grand time for both Isaiah’s and Leon’s birthdays; the ocassions had to include good people, good food, and good times.

Isaiah D. W. – November, 2023

It was a beautiful sunny day for Isaiah’s first birthday, and we set up in Linneiyi Station, which is a lovely park right across the street from our house.

There is a restaurant in an old building there (it used to be the office for the Taiwan Mitsubishi Paper Mills Company). The manager is very nice and let us borrow stools and tables.

We brought a selection of food and snacks and ordered more from different restaurants nearby. We were sure to include chips and salsa (my favorite) and pizza (a favorite of almost any child, I reckon).

It wasn’t long before people started to arrive; Isaiah got some gifts and everyone enjoyed the feast.

After everyone was thoroughly satiated, we only had one activity on the agenda: The gender reveal for the baby in LL’s belly.

I’ve never cared too much for this tradition, and there was no surprise for me because I had already glimpsed something during a recent ultrasound. However, it can still be a lot of fun, and I was the only one who knew the gender of the baby already.

The reveal was simple. I had some friends secretly put a bra on me that was either pink or blue. I then covered myself with a button-up shirt.

We inquired about everyone’s hopes (since we already had a boy, many – including myself – were hoping for a girl), LL did a brief countdown, and then I ripped off my shirt…

I revealed, to some people’s surprise (and maybe some people’s disappointment), a blue bra; another boy was on its way.

Everyone mingled, ate some cake, and played around. Isaiah’s first birthday was a complete success, and cleanup was not so bad.

Leon B. W. – March, 2025

On the morn’ of Leon’s birthday, we woke up to dark clouds and gusty winds. We were worried that repeating the same venue we used for Isaiah’s birthday might be a bad idea.

Luckily, Linneiyi Station has an area in the back with cover, so the manager was kind enough to let us set up there.

With two young boys, we decided not to waste any time and just paid for a caterer to provide all the food (burgers, croissant sandwiches, fried veggies, quiche, etc.). We also ordered customized drinks.

The party started out as normal with mingling and feasting.

Our neighbor, Emma, is a very talented face painter, and she was kind enough to donate her talents to the party.

Since we had no gender reveal to do this time (though I did joke that we should pretend), we had to come up with some other activity. LL had the bright idea that we would do a small quiz. She asked questions (mostly about Leon) and whoever guessed the right answer would win a prize.

It took a short while for people to get into the game; it was almost as if they were just content to hang out with each other and chat. But once they saw the lavish prizes, they couldn’t resist. We gave away:

Leon edition water.

Leon edition cola.

Socks that looked like hotpot meat.

A bag of rice.

A bottle of wine.

The grand prize (for correctly guessing my age) was truly extravagant…

A shirt of me.

The dark clouds rolled away, and no storm came. So, we unleashed bubbles and an oversized football.

In the end, this party was also a huge success, and I believe everyone had a great time.

What Does it Mean?

This ceremony in Taiwan exemplifies how traditional practices can remain relevant and meaningful across centuries of social change. The ritual’s enduring appeal lies in its ability to serve multiple purposes simultaneously: it honors cultural heritage, strengthens family bonds, creates memorable celebrations, and offers a playful glimpse into a child’s potential future.

We didn’t spend too much time on this tradition. After all, no matter how old you get, the focus of a birthday should be fun. We just used it as an excuse to hang out with our friends. In the end, isn’t that all that matters?

Taiwanese New Year

February 7, 2025March 7, 2025 / Joel Malcolm Witherington / Leave a comment

The more you praise and celebrate your life,
the more there is in life to celebrate.

The smell of grilled food fills your nose and the sound of happy chatter can be heard all around. Explosive pyrotechnic displays happen regularly, with fireworks exploding right above your house on occasion. This is not some kind of Fourth of July celebration, this is the new year holiday in Taiwan, and you’re in for a good time.

You can always tell when New Years is coming because the outsides of grocery and convenience stores fill up with boxes of cookies and other treats for easy gift-giving.

The front of a 7-11 wdisplaying gifts for New Years

My inlaws and I gathered around the table.

For me, this has generally been a time to get together with the families of friends or my in-laws. It almost always involves eating a lot, playing mahjong or dice gambling games, and sipping on some fine whisky or Kaoliang. But, it is obviously a lot more than that.

New Year’s in Taiwan is their longest yearly holiday (comparable to December’s winter break in Canada or the US – but most people only get one week off work). It is steeped in history. Since I am not entirely familiar with all the traditions, I’ve done some research to try and paint a more comprehensive picture of the festivities that goes beyond just my personal experiences.

What’s In a Name: Spring Festival, Lunar, Chinese, or just New Years?

To get started, you might want to know why the new year is celebrated at a different time in Taiwan. This all has to do with the various kinds of calendars.

The Gregorian calendar is the most common calendar, and what people generally find on their electronic devices or hanging on their walls. It is a solar calendar, and, as the name suggests, it tracks time based on Earth’s movement around the sun.

The Gregorian calendar is what gives us 12 months of varying length that make up a year of 365 days (366 on a leap year). According to this calendar, New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day fall on the same days every year – December 31st and January 1st.

Taiwan celebrates this new year along with many other countries in the world. In fact, Taipei 101 has a mesmerizing fireworks display every year after the countdown, and January 1st is a national holiday.

However, the biggest New Year’s celebration in Taiwan happens following a lunisolar calendar, which tracks time based on the solar year and the phases of the moon. The Lunar New Year happens at different times each year, but it is generally celebrated on the second new moon following the winter solstice, which falls between late January and mid-February. It ends when that lunar phase has come to an end – around 15 days (half a lunation) later.

This is the Chinese zodiac, which differs from the Western zodiac inspired by Greek and Babylonian astrological traditions.

The Chinese zodiac doesn’t refer to star constellations, it follows the lunisolar schedule on a 12-year cycle. Each year is represented by a different animal – 2024 was the year of the dragon, and 2025 is the year of the snake.

There is a debate about what this holiday should be called (similar to conversations about saying Merry Christmas or Happy Holidays in the Western world). Some call it Chinese New Year, which is an acceptable term given that many of the traditions come from Chinese culture. After all, there were many times in history when China’s borders and influence extended far beyond what they do today.

The holiday is also occasionally called the Spring Festival because the time of year marks the beginning of spring on the traditional lunisolar calendar. In my experience, not a lot of people use this term but I do like the focus on spring that happens in Taiwan.

I used to live in a house surrounded by rice fields, and every year the farmers would plant cover crops of sunflowers, gerberas, chrysanthemums, and other pretty flowers. They would let these fields grow for a while, providing visitors with ample time to snap photos. When the holidays end, they would till the flowers back into the soil as a form of green manure.

A lot of different Asian countries (including Taiwan) have their own unique ways of celebrating this holiday, and I’ve never lived in China, so I generally call it Lunar New Year or just New Year. The common phrase to say during this time is shin-knee-en kwie-luh (新年快樂), which just means happy New Year. In 2025, it fell on January 29th and the official holidays were from January 27th to February 2nd.

Lunar New Year in Taiwan: A Blend of Tradition and Modernity

This is a time for grand celebration and is deeply rooted in centuries of tradition that seamlessly weaves together ancient Han Chinese customs with distinct Taiwanese practices to create a unique cultural mosaic that defines the island’s heritage.

My wife and her family around our table for a New Year's dinner.

As I already mentioned, my experiences generally just involve family gatherings, eating, drinking, some mild gambling, and lots of merriment. But, this post will go a little deeper and explore some of the customs other (more traditional) people uphold.

Preparing for the New Year: A Time of Renewal

The preparations for Lunar New Year begin well in advance, with families engaging in the time-honored tradition of da-sow(sounds like female pig not plant a seed)-chew (大掃除), which just means a general cleaning.

Here’s where you’ll see everyone busy sweeping, decluttering, and washing everything. I witnessed my neighbor cleaning her screen door with a toothbrush (now that’s dedication). The father of some students I tutor got a little overzealous and threw out all the books we were working on – oh well.

The streets are lined with extra junk people plan to throw in the local garbage truck drive-bys. In smaller areas, you might see a trail of black smoke rising from a sneaky bonfire.

A cartoon showing traditional cleaning for Lunar New Year.

The rigorous chores represent more than just physical cleanliness; they symbolize sweeping away the previous year’s misfortunes and making way for incoming prosperity.

Every corner of the house must be spotless, every drawer organized, and every surface polished to perfection.

Businesses often mark the year’s end with elaborate dinners or banquets. These festive gatherings serve multiple purposes: expressing gratitude to employees for their hard work, strengthening company bonds, and invoking blessings for the upcoming year. The events often feature lucky draws and entertainment. While I have never worked a job that has hosted such elaborate parties, I have been treated to a few employee dinners.

A significant spiritual preparation occurs on the 24th day of the 12th lunar month when religious families bid farewell to their household deities.

This custom acknowledges the gods’ annual journey to heaven to report on earthly affairs. Families prepare elaborate offerings of food and incense, ensuring their divine protectors depart with proper respect and return with continued blessings.

New Year’s Eve: A Night of Family Unity

The heart of the celebration lies in the dinners, where families of all generations gather around tables laden with various dishes.

A selection of food for new year's dinner.

The careful selection of foods reflects hopes for the coming year: whole fish symbolizes abundance, dumplings represent wealth, and sticky rice cakes suggest rising prosperity and status.

Homes transform into festive spaces adorned with bright red. Stores open up just at this time of year to sell decorations, gifts, fireworks, etc. Some people just sell them out of the front of their houses.

LL and Isaiah at a store selling New Year's decorations.

Families hang red couplets featuring phrases with gold lettering on their doorways and windows; red lanterns illuminate entrances. These vibrant decorations serve both aesthetic and spiritual purposes, creating a protective barrier against negative energies while inviting good fortune.

The tradition of staying awake past midnight – just like Western New Year’s Eve – remains a cherished practice. Children play or nap as families chat loudly, play games, or watch special New Year television programs (I’ve never seen the TV shows).

Four MANY hours leading up to midnight, people light off fireworks EVERYWHERE. While living across the street from a lovely park is generally enjoyable, the bombardment of explosions can get a little old after a while (especially when you have two little boys trying to sleep). That doesn’t stop me from going outside, standing in the middle of the street, and watching them.

Fireworks explode above a house down the street.

Fireworks explode above the park accross the street.

These lively late-night customs are not just for fun, they are believed to extend the life of one’s parents, adding a touching dimension to the festivities.

Fifteen Days of Celebration

While I have not observed many of these customs, each day of the New Year period carries its own significance for some.

On the first day, families don new clothes and visit local temples to pray for blessings. Sharp objects are stored away to avoid cutting off good luck, and cleaning is avoided to prevent sweeping away fortune – good thing the houses were already made spotless.

The second day highlights the importance of family ties, as married daughters return to their childhood homes. Since I live in my wife’s hometown, this is not much of a concern for us, but the tradition strengthens family bonds through the exchange of gifts.

The third day provides a welcome respite, as it’s considered somewhat inauspicious for visiting, allowing families to rest and recover from the festivities.

The fourth day marks the welcoming back of the deities, with fresh offerings and renewed prayers. By the fifth and following days, the practical aspects of life begin to resume as some businesses reopen.

This time is often accompanied by – less visually appealing but equally noisy – firecracker displays at temples to attract prosperity and drive away evil spirits.

A highlight of the extended celebration occurs on the ninth day, particularly significant for Taiwan’s Hokkien community.

This day marks the Jade Emperor‘s birthday, celebrated with elaborate ceremonies and offerings that showcase the deep spiritual connections maintained in Taiwanese society.

Hokkiens prepare to set up decorations for the Jade Emperor's birthday.

A Mix of Modernity and Tradition

Modern celebrations have adapted while maintaining their cultural essence. The tradition of giving red envelopes called hong-bows(sounds like to bend at the waist out of respect, not something you use to shoot an arrow) (紅包) is quite common, and this is a tradition we uphold.

Generally, parents give red envelopes to their kids until they’ve been employed for a while. After that, everyone gives them to their parents and grandparents.

The giving of red envelopes also happens at weddings, birthdays, and the arrival of new babies. It has expanded beyond family to include various social and professional relationships. It isn’t uncommon for a valued employee to receive one month’s (or more) salary in a red envelope before the New Year’s holiday. I have never been this lucky, but some employers have given me small amounts over the years.

During the holidays, you can also see lion and dragon dances enlivening public spaces, with professional troupes running around shopping centers and corporate events.

These performances maintain their traditional purpose of bringing prosperity while adapting to contemporary settings and audiences.

A Living Heritage

No matter how you choose to participate, the New Year’s celebrations in Taiwan exemplify how traditions can remain vibrant and meaningful in a modern society. While the core elements of family unity, spiritual devotion, and cultural preservation remain strong, the festival continues to evolve, incorporating new practices while honoring ancient customs.

It doesn’t matter where you come from, it isn’t hard for any foreigner or local to find a full glass, stuffed tummy, and plenty of smiling faces in Taiwan during this time – as long as you don’t mind a few crowded venues and traffic jams.

The First Few Years: Part 2 – Orientation

January 20, 2025February 7, 2025 / Joel Malcolm Witherington / Leave a comment

Whatever you do, or dream you can, begin it.
Boldness has genius, power, and magic in it.

So there I was, staying in a stranger’s house in the small town of Zhushan (竹山). It didn’t take me long to discover that there weren’t many other foreigners. In fact, strangers like myself were so rare that it wasn’t uncommon for locals to stop what they were doing, point at me with surprise, and yell “way-gwa-ren” (外國人), which means foreign person. Though, sometimes I think they were saying “may-gwa-ren” (美國人), which means American (person).

Who was I to correct them? Canada is in North America, so I suppose they weren’t wrong.

In all honesty, sometimes people – especially children – still point and yell this at me (or other foreigners). I suppose it’s one of the quirks of living in small towns; I don’t think it happens too much in the cities.

Learning to Ride

Anyway, to get around in Zhushan, Mia had allowed me the use of a scooter. She asked me if I knew how to drive one, and I assured her I did. In reality, I had never really done it before, but I was confident I would learn quite quickly. I did get a few raised eyebrows when I had to ask how to turn the scooter on (for those who don’t know: turn the key, hold the brake, and then press the ignition button).

To be clear, by scooter I mean a two-wheeled open motor vehicle with a whopping 125 CCs of pure power, not a foot-propelled children’s toy.

It turns out that I wasn’t wrong, and I was quite adept at driving around on 2 wheels even though it was my first time. The adventuring could fully commence!

Eventually, I bought my own scooter. I called it the Grey Pilgrim, and it served me VERY well for many years. Unfortunately, I didn’t think to take many good pictures of it, but it survived flying into a rice field, flipping down in a concrete ditch, towing a motorcycle and its driver out of the forest, and hauling all my brewing supplies.

After a while, I yearned for something more stylish and started looking at motorcycles. Shopping for one was quite an interesting experience. I had seen a few I liked on the street and at various shops and was about to make a purchase. That was when my boss told me she found out that Hartford Motorcycles had a showroom in the nearby city of Taichung (臺中市).

As it turned out, they were getting rid of their 2014 models to make room for the 2015s. So, we took a trip up there and looked around. I found one I liked for a great price, and they arranged to have it shipped to a dealer close to Zhushan.

A row of motorcycles and scooters at a Hartford showroom in Taichung city.

I had never driven a motorcycle before, but I watched a quick video on how to change gears and only stalled a couple of times after picking it up.

Given enough time, it’s not hard to start a bit of a collection.

A row of scooters and motorcycles in front of an old house in Taiwan. — Taken around 2019. Starting from the back left: LL’s scooter, my mom’s electric bike, the Grey Pilgrim, my friend Sam’s scooter, and my motorcycle.

A Surprise Guest

During one of my first nights in Zhushan, I had settled into the room I had been offered by Mia. The house belonged to her sister, Mandy, and Mia had gone away on a short trip, which she liked to do often. I turned off the lights, crawled into bed, and drifted off to sleep. After a while, I became aware of someone else in the room. In fact, there was actually someone else in bed with me.

A small body crept closer, and then eventually lay right on top of me.

Meet Perry. He is Mia and Mandy’s nephew. Unbeknownst to me, he often slept at Mandy’s house during the week because it was very close to his elementary school. When he did, he would use the room I had settled in. It turns out I would have a squirmy bed partner during my stay there.

Apart from occasionally sharing a bed, Perry and I would take walks to the playground, cook sausages in the toaster oven, and watch cheesy Taiwanese TV shows.

I would also become his English teacher at the buxiban for many years.

Promotional image for the Taiwanese TV show Justice Pao

Class Is in Session

My days of freedom were coming to an end, and it wouldn’t be long before I would officially start work as an English teacher. I wondered about some sort of training or orientation, but I guess I had sold myself well enough with my resume that I was just going to be thrown straight into the classroom. My boss even asked me if I could help train the other new teacher, which I found a little strange considering I hadn’t done any actual teaching yet.

The school I started working at was called Tom Kindergarten (南投縣私立湯姆幼兒園). It can also be referred to as a nursery school because they look after young kids anywhere from 2 years old until they are ready to enter elementary school. I would work there from 9 am-3 pm Monday to Friday (with occasional weekend events). We would teach the kids English through a mixture of stories, crafts, various activities, and traditional bookwork (ABCs, phonics, etc.). We would also take them on monthly field trips.

It wasn’t hard to fall in love with these kids, and they seemed to enjoy having me around. I decided quite quickly that I would remain there for three years. That way, I could see my youngest students move on.

I soon noticed a flaw in my original plan; when one group of students ‘graduated‘ from the school, they were replaced by another. Each new class of youngsters was just as delightful as the last, and I found it hard to leave. My salary was decent, the work was enjoyable, and the students were adorable. In a way, I considered this a bit of training for when I was to become a parent. I got comfortable and remained at Tom Kindergarten for over seven years.

In July, the school year would end with a graduation for the children who were moving up to elementary school. Everyone would get dressed up and we would put on a big show for the parents. The children wore costumes, put on plays in English, and did various dances and musical performances.

At around 3 pm every day, I would head over to the buxiban and teach elementary-aged kids until 7 pm. These kids were not always the best behaved, but we still managed to have a little fun and learn something.

I will write more about schools, teaching, education, etc. in a separate post.

Better With Two

Both schools were quite large and had a lot of students, so even though I was teaching a lot every week (~30-35 classroom hours), the job was too big for just me. Mia had mentioned that I would have a coworker, and I didn’t have to wait long.

Emily arrived in Zhushan not long after I did, and she was also given a room in Mandy’s house. She is an American, and I believe this was her first big solo adventure away from her family. Seeing as we were the only two English-speaking people around, we spent our free time together.

Joel and Emily in front of a tired mountain tea field

Emily and I would often jump on the scooter and explore the local area. I would drive and she would sit on the back, relaxing and taking the occasional nap.

We enjoyed heading into the mountains to wander around the misty tea fields that are so plentiful in Nantou County (南投縣).

After a while, we grew tired of crashing at Mandy’s house (plus, I yearned for a bed without Perry). So, with the help of Mia, we began searching for our own accommodation.

The First Few Years: Part 1 – Leaving Taipei

January 6, 2025February 7, 2025 / Joel Malcolm Witherington / Leave a comment

Settling down doesn’t mean settling for less;
it means finding where you’re meant to be.

Getting Up To Speed

Needless to say, a lot of time has passed since my last post. Life got in the way of my blog creation. Call it a New Year’s resolution if you like (though I’ve never been a fan of the practice), now I’m back to doing some of my own writing. When I logged back on to my blog, I was disappointed to find out that I had lost a lot of earlier draft posts about my travels in Europe as well as South and Central America. I will focus on my life in Taiwan for now and revisit the other adventures when I have time (and have reread my journals).

To catch up, I had been bumming around Taipei, a little unnerved from my attempt to camp in a typhoon and wondering what my next move would be; my plan had been to take my little tent around Taiwan before I departed. I moved to a cheap hostel where I could have a private room and plan my tour of the island. I had a flight to South Korea that left in three months because my original plan had been to go there and pursue my goal of becoming an ESL teacher.

Becoming An ESL Teacher In Taiwan

It wasn’t long before I realized that teaching English in Taiwan was not only a possibility, but it could also be quite lucrative. While the wages for an English teacher in Taiwan are not amazing, the cost of living is VERY reasonable – especially if you live outside of the cities.

I grabbed my laptop and started searching. I had already applied for jobs in South Korea and received many offers, so I knew my resume was fairly decent. It didn’t take long until I got some positive responses.

One opportunity that appealed to me was from a school in a small town called Zhushan (竹山) in Nantou County (南投縣).

This county is directly in the center of Taiwan and is one of the only ones without a border on the ocean.

A Lovely Location

I did a little research into Zhushan before replying and was happy with what I saw. Its name (zhu 竹 + shan 山) roughly translates to bamboo mountain, and the name didn’t disappoint. The town was nestled in a valley surrounded by mountains containing vast tea fields, raging waterfalls, towering bamboo forests, and plenty of areas for hiking and exploring.

One of the major tourist attractions in this area is called the Zhushan Sky Ladder (竹山天梯). With 208 steps spanning 136 meters (446 ft), it is one of the biggest suspension bridges in the world (that has stairs).

I will write more about Zhushan, Nantou County, and the Sky Ladder in separate posts. For now, I will focus on my journey.

Joel, Diane, and Mia making dumplings (with James in the background, eating some).

The person who offered me the job was named Mia Lee, and she would be quite influential in my early days (years) in Taiwan.

An Offer I Couldn’t Refuse

Mia said I could have the job if I wanted to. I would be working in a kindergarten in the mornings, and then in the afternoons at what is called a buxiban (補習班) or cram school. I told her I would love to take the job, but she was a little wary. She worried that a newly arrived foreigner would be lonely in a small town like Zhushan. So, she invited me to come down and spend a week there to determine if I could survive teaching in such a small place for a full year.

I had no problem with a small town; in fact, I preferred that setting to working in a big city (obviously, Mia wasn’t aware of Duncan—the town I grew up in). I graciously accepted her offer, packed my backpack, and jumped on the train heading south.

Zhushan doesn’t have a train station, so I arrived at a town called Linnei (林內) in the bordering Yunlin County (雲林縣). Coincidentally, that is where my wife was raised and where we live at the time of writing.

Mia was there waiting for me. We loaded my gear into her car, and she drove to Zhushan. She brought me to her house and let me settle into an empty room. She told me she would take me to the school so that I could meet the teacher I was going to replace. Even though she was about to leave on a trip, she assured me that I could stay at her house and provided me with a scooter I could use to drive around town and explore.

I was amazed at the trust she was willing to show someone she had just met. It wouldn’t take me long to discover that this level of generosity and kindness isn’t uncommon in Taiwan.

Onward Through the Fog

September 12, 2014January 6, 2025 / Joel Malcolm Witherington / Leave a comment

The use of traveling is to regulate imagination by reality,

and instead of thinking how things may be,

to see them as they are.

After a brief recharge at my favorite Taipei hostel, I was ready to head out once more.
I went to the Xindian River, which leads to a body of water called Bitan, meaning green lake.

On the hike up the mountain, I got to witness even more evidence of the past typhoons.

It was an easy hike up except for the intense heat. By the time I got to the top it was almost noon. The view was amazing, and I was rewarded with a panorama of northern Taiwan, including many other mountaintops and the riverway. I met a lovely Polish lady named Ursella and we hiked down together through a thick jungle filled with butterflies and other insects.

When we got to the bottom we realized we were on the wrong side of the river (very far away from the bridge). Luckily, there was a boatman willing to take us across for a little coin (we paid, the locals did not.) I was so happy to have someone to adventure with that we made plans for the following morning.

The goal was to find the waterfall I failed to locate upon my arrival in Taiwan.

We met up in the early morning, and, after a brief gondola ride, we shared a snack next to a friendly-looking statue.

With food in my belly and a friend to accompany me, I felt so much more confident in exploring. I am not sure if Ursella felt the same way, but I just liked the idea that if something bad happened, there was a good chance one of us could go find help. We wandered for a long time. Sometimes there was a trail or stairs, sometimes there was nothing.

We passed shacks with music playing and toothless farmers waving happily.

We marched on, passing many shrines with fresh flowers.

Ursella read a bit of Chinese, so she deciphered any signs we encountered and led us toward a waterfall. We found a stream and followed it in hopes of finding the silver shower.

We eventually came to a lovely temple built into a cave with a small waterfall flowing down its side.

This was not the waterfall I had been aiming for, but it was a lovely spot. Good enough for a victory picnic and a relax in the shade.

Joel and Ursella sitting by a shrine nect to a small waterfall.

We were the only people there, and it was lovely (no, I am not naked, just shirtless).

The whole temple area was covered in cacti, orchids, and epiphytic plants. It was then that I realized this was the place I could finally perfect my knowledge of growing air plants. The air is so humid here that all they love to grow. No wonder I have had trouble growing tropical epiphytes in ol’ Canada.

Ursella and I lingered for a while, then headed back. We stopped to put our feet in the river a couple of times and many a little fish came and nibbled our toes. Everything is so alive in this country.

Next up, getting settled.

Does Fortune Favor the Bold?

August 9, 2014January 6, 2025 / Joel Malcolm Witherington / Leave a comment

Traveling is a brutality.

It forces you to trust strangers

and to lose sight of all that familiar comfort of home and friends.

You are constantly off balance.

Nothing is yours except the essential things – air, sleep, dreams, the sea, the sky,

all things tending towards the eternal or what we imagine of it.

My apologies for the delay in this post. I had most of it written but somehow it got lost in the ether. It can be disheartening to have to rewrite something that took some thought. I have now figured out a better way of navigating WordPress.

So, on a train I went, heading for some good ol’ beach camping. Three hours northeast. Shame I didn’t check the weather forecast.

It all started so perfectly. I spent my first night at a real campground, they advise you to set up your tent on a small raised platform. That way, if it rains you don’t have to worry about sleeping in a swamp. Except for a small summer camp of youngsters, I was the only one in the whole 37 hectares. The first day/night was great. Every couple of hours, a train of kids walked by just loving the chance to practice saying “Hello” and “How are you.”

I went down to the beach for some real relaxation, but the locals kept on looking at me warily; some of them were trying to tell me things I could not decipher. Eventually, I came to understand that bad weather was rolling in and I probably shouldn’t be camping. There was some grey sky approaching, so I battened down the hatches and found a good spot with tree cover on three out of four sides. Then, I salvaged some extra rope and tied down everything I could. I even used rocks so I didn’t have to worry about a tent chase. People still seemed to think I shouldn’t be outside, but I am Canadian, and we camp in the winter!

I equated this to my time in South America when people would hide from warm rain downpours, Tristan and I would march happily down the center of the street with water up to our ankles. Why are people always so apprehensive?

At first it wasn’t so bad, but it wasn’t that enjoyable either. As Mr Gump once said:

“We been through every kind of rain there is. Little bitty stingin’ rain… and big ol’ fat rain.

Rain that flew in sideways. And sometimes rain even seemed to come straight up from underneath.

Shoot, it even rained at night… “

Even with all my prep, I was getting wet in the tent. It seemed like the wind was blowing the rain along the ground and then up in between the tent and my fly. I did make one friend though.

The weather didn’t ease up, enough was enough. A man I had talked to earlier found a younger guy to come and explain the situation. He told me no one should be outside at all. I acceded to his advice and packed up my gear as fast as I could. I donned my helmet (special thanks to Lisa S from Swedan for the life-saving gift) and the nice young lad offered me a ride back to the office at the campsite where I was met with a few other concerned individuals. I was rushed to a collection of little A-frame structures, given some bottled water, instant noodles, and told to stay inside. the weather should ease up tomorrow evening.

Typhoons are a magnificent display of the power of nature. The downfall of rain made streams and rivers appear everywhere, the thunder roared while the flashes of lightning illuminated branches flying through the air and trees tumbling to the ground. I think the storm was centered right above my little A-frame; there were only seconds between thunderclaps. Perhaps there was an earthquake, or can thunder be that strong? It didn’t ease up for a couple of days, at least that nice young guy came back with more water and noodles. Days bled into night, it was always dark. This was my life:

,Unfortunately, I did not bring enough books, only two small novels. Plus half of Verne’s 20,000 Leagues… is just scientific names listing all of the plants and fishies Prof. Aronnax gets to witness on his voyage with Capt Nemo… skim/skip. So I got to voyage into the depths of my own mind and spend way too much time contemplating life, love, and the nature of my current predicament. The weather was so bad no trains or busses came through the town. Was I safe there? How long was this typhoon going to last? Who were these people who so quickly ushered me into this little cabin? Did they have an ulterior motive? How much was their kindness going to cost me?

After a few days and a few nights, the weather started to break. It still wasn’t nice but I could see some blue sky and maybe even a little sunshine. Time to flee the cage and spread my wings. I tallied up a rough estimate of how much food and bottled water I was provided with, added some for disaster accommodation, and doubled it. With the keys to the A-frame and a wad of bills I left in search of life.

I found a couple of people crawling out from under their own protective rocks, and then I noticed the nice young gentleman who had kept me alive with provisions. I handed him the key and the pile of cash. He rejected the latter. I tried to find someone who wanted to take my money for their kindness, but everyone responded “its ok.” I got a feeling like the generous people of Taiwan look after each other in times of trouble and they took pity on me. I will find a way to show my gratitude.

Typhoons are indeed a force to be reckoned with, they are unpredictable and violent. Nothing I’ve experienced on the west coast compares (another reason Vancouver Island is awesome).

A typhoon is a tropical cyclone formed by six factors:

Warm temperature on the surface of the ocean.
Atmospheric instability.
High humidity in lower levels.
The spin of the earth causes a swirl(like the flushing of a toilet), and a low-pressure centre develops.
Pre-existing low level disturbance.
Low vertical wind shear.

Taiwan had received the wettest typhoon on record. The storm I endured was named Typhoon Matmo, it was not bad in comparison to others but in Taiwan, it claimed one life, injured five, damaged cars and buildings, and caused tens of millions of dollars of agricultural losses. A TransAsia plane caught in the typhoon crashed and 48 out of the 58 passengers died.

A friend later told me a story of a particularly destructive typhoon. A small town in a valley was waiting out an average typhoon. It was passing by the coast and everyone believed that they would be waking up to blue skies in the morrow. Then, they heard some rocks falling down the mountain. As the typhoon was traveling down the coast, it got to the spot where the nearby river entered the ocean. Instead of passing by, the typhoon was sucked up the riverway. The intense typhoon-weather-power and heavy precipitation caused the river bed to expand so much that it burst its bank, causing water and half of the mountain to fall into the valley. Now there is a memorial to that village that once was.

I am not going to camp when typhoons are near anymore.

Let’s Raise the Bar and Our Cups to the Sun

July 21, 2014January 6, 2025 / Joel Malcolm Witherington / 1 Comment

For my part, I travel not to go anywhere, but to go.

I travel for travel’s sake.

The great affair is to move.

So it was time to get a little social. I met a few nice people over some late-night drinks at the hostel and the next day, after saying goodbye to Lisa from Swedan, I went to the National Palace Museum with Hao from China and Monica from Taiwan.

No cameras were allowed inside the museum, so these photos are not my own, but there were many great exhibits. I enjoyed looking at the paintings done over centuries, some of the landscapes were my favorites.

There were bronze artifacts dating back past 1050 BC, some interesting and rather heavy-looking wine containers.

They also had very old swords with gold inscriptions.There was an entire exhibit hall dedicated to the various God and Buddha statues that have been popular over the centuries. But what everyone really came to see was the jade. They had jade of all sizes and colors; it was crafted into beautiful jewelry, statues, snuff boxes, and dishes.

The real prize? A naturally occurring piece of jade that looked just like a chunk of pork belly.

And of course, no hunk of pork would be complete without a piece of jade crafted to look like a cabbage.

We spent many hours at the museum, I don’t think Hao wanted to leave. He was busy looking at the rare books and calligraphy, but Monica and I had started to get tired so we had a coffee break.

A little internet ressearch told me there was a five day music festival happening at a nearby beach. Since I had been there over a week and not done any partying, I figured this would be the perfect chance. I met a girl named Jackie who really wanted to go so we boarded a train and headed to Fulong Beach.

The Ho-Hai-Yan Rock Festival happens every year, right on the beach. The word hohaiyan roughly means waves and oceans. The day we went showcased rock music from all around the world. One of my favorites was a band from India, least favorite was a heavy metal band from Quebec (too bad cause everyone was excited to point out the Canadian music to me).

The place was bustling. Everything you could ever desire was for sale, music was playing from two big stages and almost every little booth along the way. Once you got passed the train station and shops, you had to cross a bridge out to a sandy peninsula. This is where you could swim, dance, eat, or lay under a shady umbrella.

I liked the technique of digging a hole in the sand to make a beach recliner. It made you sandy, and walking through the crowd was hard without tripping over people. But it was a comfortable way to rest your feet after dancing in the sun. We stayed late into the night. The show ended with some fireworks and everyone crammed onto the last train back to the city. Did I mention that it was all free?

I went back to the festival the next day, but a typhoon was passing through to the north and it was very windy and rainy, so I didn’t stick around to party in the mud. I went back to the beach after the festival was over and enjoyed swimming and sun without to much crowds.

I still had my home base in Taipei, the longest I have ever spent in a capital city. It is just so clean and full of friendly people that I couldn’t leave. It also has a very convenient public transport system, so I could do day trips all over northern Taiwan. My next stop was the Tamsui River.

Tamsui means fresh water, though the place is not that big, it has three universities and an old fort. Due to its location, historically it has been quite influential in Taiwanese history.

This is Fort Santo Domingo, originally built by the Spanish in 1628. One night in 1636, a group of locals angered by Spanish tax attacked the fort and razed it to the ground. The Spanish rebuilt it with higher walls, but the Dutch took it over in 1642. The Dutch renamed it Fort Antonio but the locals called it Peh-oe-ji, or fort of the red-haired. After the second opium war in 1868, the British took control of the fort and made it their trade consulate. After the British broke off diplomatic relations with the Republic of China’s government, the building was turned into a museum. It has beautiful gardens and a row of old canons, each one from a different time period and nationality.

After the fort, I toured around the gardens of the universities and enjoyed the rest of Tamsui.

I am growing tired of the city, so i bought a really nice tent and am now going to head out. I can secure some of my gear, along with my laptop, in the basement of the hostel, so I may not be back for a little while, but I shall return with good stories assuredly.

Into the Wild.

July 15, 2014January 6, 2025 / Joel Malcolm Witherington / Leave a comment

The traveler was active;

he went strenuously in search of people, of adventure, of experience.

The tourist is passive;

he expects interesting things to happen to him. He goes ‘sight-seeing.’

After a day of getting established, buying supplies and sorting out the metro system, I am ready to head out of the city in search of wonders.

My first adventure started with a trip to the Maokong Gondolas to ascend mountains and check out some shrines and temples. The metro stopped at the zoo but I decided to skip out on that attraction in favor of heading up. Some of the gondolas have clear bottoms, and everyone was lining up to wait for them. I didn’t need a clear bottom so I could skip the line and got the ride all to myself.

I felt like James Bond ascending into Jurassic Park.

The first stop was Zhinan Gong, built in 1891 this temple worships Lu Tung Pin, one of Chinese Mythology’s eight immortals. I must visit them all and discover their secrets of long life. A Tao inscription reads:

The Tao teaches the way to make peace with one’s inner self. In that state, one may expand beyond external boundaries freely without any conflict with the heaven, the world, or other people. He will then experience contentment, longevity, and eternal bliss.

The meaning of not fighting is so profound. It is the optimal way for us to bring peace to the world, enhance harmony in society, and maintain equilibrium in life.

In a confused world, people fight for power with all means. In a chaotic society, people struggle for fame and fortune with no end. What a pity that they do not realize that the tao tolerates no excess. Those in power may suddenly encounter extreme adversities. Those in good fortunate may lose everything in a blink. It is therefore better not to fight at all than to struggle with all might. As the tao master says, “It is in not fighting for anything that one ensures that nothing will fight against him.”
The tao teaches the way to make peace with one’s inner self. In that state, one may expand beyond external boundaries freely without any conflict with the heaven, the world, or other people. He will then experience contentment, longevity, and eternal bliss.
The meaning of not fighting is so profound. It is the optimal way for us to bring peace to the world, enhance harmony in society and maintain equilibrium in life. – See more at: http://studymorechinese.com/photo/tao-stone-near-zhinan-temple-taipei-taiwan#sthash.4m5D0WTe.dpuf

In a confused world, people fight for power with all means. In a chaotic society, people struggle for fame and fortune with no end. – See more at: http://studymorechinese.com/photo/tao-stone-near-zhinan-temple-taipei-taiwan#sthash.4m5D0WTe.dpuf

The temple sits perched on the mountainside surrounded by lush forest. A pathway weaves through the jungle leading interested parties to various shrines. The whole area is filled with beautiful bromeliads, green shrubs, and hundreds of butterflies (hard to capture the amount in one shot).

Many young Taiwanese people avoid the main temple because ol’ Lu was known to be a jilted lover, so the resident God is rumored to split up unmarried couples.

After a light snack of shrimp rice and an espresso (yes, there is good coffee here!), I get back on the gondola for the journey to the top. The views of the Zhinan River valley are glorious.

The top of the mountain was bustling; loud music played from restaurants, people mingled in the many teahouses, and a steady stream of folks meandered down the road toward shrines and gift shops. I took a small path running beside the San Xuan Temple and made my way up the mountain by means of the never-ending staircase.

I lost count after about 500 stairs and kept climbing, it started to become more rugged and less clean. After aproximately the 1000-stair mark there was a little shelter, and my book told me that was where I head into the bush to find Yinhe Dong Pubu, the Silver Stream Waterfall. After all those stairs, I was heading straight down the other side of the mountain, jumping from rock to rock. I regret wearing my new flip-flops, I slip a couple of times, and start to feel a little lost. Then, I almost run in to the web of this colorful lady:

Research later tells me this must be Nephila pilipes, the golden silk spider. It has a strong web that has been used for making fabric. Its venom is toxic but not lethal to humans; of course, I did not know this at the time. There were many butterflies and other critters along my journey into the depths of the valley.

Just when I am starting to feel like this solo hike is a bad idea, I hear the cound of running water and come across a small river, my directions tell me to go downstream, so onward I march.

Day was fading, and no waterfalls in sight. In the future, I will not make these trips on my own. I soaked my sore feet in the river and then started the long journey back. The buzzing of the bugs almost hides the loud beating of my heart (just a bit scared) as I climb out of the mountain valley. Lots of mosquitoes. Back at the shelter I cracked the beer I had saved for the waterfall and relaxed before heading back down the near-endless stairs.

It felt like the day had been quite successful despite not finding the waterfall. But I probably shouldn’t hike alone in a strange land. The next day I was a little sore so I decided to head to Dire Gu (Hell Valley), the geothermal valley of Beitou (this would become one of my favorite spots in the country). It was time to soak my sore muscles in some hotsprings.

Though it may seem strange to head to this steamy valley when it is so hot outside, this place amazes me. On my second visit I played tour guide to some friends who had arrived in Taipei from a high school environmental conference.

The Beitou Thermal Valley covers 325 sq m (3500 sq ft), it is a deep valley that was created prior to the eruption of a nearby volcano. Though the water temperature in the crater is slightly higher than 90C, it is deemed not hot enough to sustain another eruption. Visitors used to be allowed to lean over the edge and cook eggs, but that is now forbidden. I guess boiled tourists are less than ideal. The hot spring in the valley is one of only two green sulfur springs in the world.

No, that is not algae. When the ground water mixes with volcanic gases it gets heavily acidified and contains a high concentration of chlorinated sulfate. The sediment settles into the cracks of rocks and after a long time, crystallizes, splitting the rocks into pebbles containing the rare mineral hokutolite. Most of it has been extracted by collectors. The green sulfur spring contains traces of radioactive matter called radium, rumored to have a magic effect for recreation, sanitarium, rehabilitation, and beauty. Might as well pipe it into some stone pools and let people soak it up!

This is the Beitou public hot springs. The pool at the top right is a scalding 48 C, I could not stay in there very long. Seems like that was for the seasoned veterans (old locals). As the water cascades down to the lower pools, it naturally cools: middle pool ~38 C, bottom left ~30 C. On my first visit, I wondered why the two clear pools in the front of the photo were so full of people. When I finally squeezed myself into one of them I discovered why they were so popular; they were filled with clear, cool water. I have no idea how they keep them so refreshing, maybe it just feels cool by comparison to the hot pools. On my next visit, I met a gaggle of ladies from Toronto who would have lived in those cool pools if given the chance.

Reflections on the journey thus far:

You are only allowed to wear tight speedos in the public hot spring. No loos shorts allowed.
I need to get a cell phone, everyone spends all their time staring at them. Should have bought one in Canada, they are not much cheaper here.
Tie-dyed clothing is perfect for hiding sweat marks.
The humidity here fogs up my camera, making it very hard to take good photos, especially since I do not have a viewfinder. Moisture droplets are starting to appear inside the camera, don’t think it is going to last.
The employees at the hostel love English music, especially Leonard Cohen… I approve.
It is vital to find an adventure partner so I don’t have to hike alone. Preferably a Taiwanese adventurer (if they exist).
Never discount the rejuvenating powers of a cold beer and some Nina Simone after a grueling hike that has left every article of your clothing dripping with sweat.

In the Beginning…

July 8, 2014January 6, 2025 / Joel Malcolm Witherington / Leave a comment

All that is gold does not glitter,

Not all those who wander are lost;

The old that is strong does not wither,

Deep roots are not reached by the frost.

My latest adventure has begun. I am now wandering the busy streets of Taipei. Contrary to the above quote, sometimes those who wander are lost. Luckily, every time I have stopped to scrutinize a street sign or city map, some friendly stranger has come to my aid. I am staying in a very nice hostel, most of the other guests are Chinese and I have yet to meet another North American, for now it makes me feel a little out of place but I am sure once i learn the lay of the land and pick up a few phrases, I will enjoy being unique.

My goodbyes from Canada were lovely, I am very lucky to have so many wonderful people in my life and to have been able to enjoy Chemainus River camp-out with a lot of special friends, beach weekend with Karl and Jordan, dinner with coworkers and the Spriggs family followed by drinks and my last climb up Johnson st bridge(probably will be gone once I return), family BBqs in Victoria, Nanaimo, and Vancouver, and a nice sleepover with Jeremy, Steph, and baby Marlie.

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During my time in Nanaimo I had a chance to teach the boys the art of tie-dyeing. The boys each did a coloured shirt of their choosing:

I even made a special t-shirt for every member of my immediate family, mine has come along with me on my travels.

For those of you I did not get a chance to say a final goodbye to, know that it was not intentional and I love you very much.

I may need to learn the fine art of planning in advance. In my past worldly trips, I had the freedom to move around as I please and find accommodation once I have arrived in a city. Here in Taiwan, it seems I actually have to book rooms in advance!

Originally I only gave myself three days in Taipei (Mon-Thurs), and I decided to extend it until the following Monday. As it stands right now I have no place to sleep on Friday night.

I may look into doing an overnight trip somewhere exciting, my other option is to just stash my gear somewhere and pull an all-nighter Friday, and return to the Hostel Saturday afternoon for a catnap. Luckily I have some time to figure this out. Taipei is a great hub for trips to surrounding areas, also for shopping (and I needed a few more hot-weather clothes).

My first morning there had torrential rain and mid-30-degree weather. I realized my hiking boots just will not do for city life. So today is a shopping day: tank tops, shorts, open footwear, and perhaps a hat are in order. I also need to price out a new cellphone and an e-reader or find an English bookstore.

Like most places in the world, it is quite easy to live cheaply or extravagantly here. All our Western chain stores/restaurants are available and expensive, but I will seek out the small markets and food stalls. I believe it is justifiable to spend a little extra cash at the beginning of a trip. It will take some time to get into the groove and find the hidden treasures.

Wander Not Lost

Explore – Engage – Enlighten

Taiwan