After a day of getting established, buying supplies and sorting out the metro system, I am ready to head out of the city in search of wonders.

My first adventure started with a trip to the Maokong Gondolas to ascend mountains and check out some shrines and temples. The metro stopped at the zoo but I decided to skip out on that attraction in favor of heading up. Some of the gondolas have clear bottoms, and everyone was lining up to wait for them. I didn’t need a clear bottom so I could skip the line and got the ride all to myself.

I felt like James Bond ascending into Jurassic Park.

The first stop was Zhinan Gong, built in 1891 this temple worships Lu Tung Pin, one of Chinese Mythology’s eight immortals. I must visit them all and discover their secrets of long life. A Tao inscription reads:

In a confused world, people fight for power with all means. In a chaotic society, people struggle for fame and fortune with no end. What a pity that they do not realize that the tao tolerates no excess. Those in power may encounter extreme adversities. Those in good fortune may lose everything in a blink. It is therefore better not to fight at all than to struggle with all might. As the tao master says, “It is in not fighting for anything that one ensures that nothing will fight against him.”

The Tao teaches the way to make peace with one’s inner self. In that state, one may expand beyond external boundaries freely without any conflict with the heaven, the world, or other people. He will then experience contentment, longevity, and eternal bliss.

The meaning of not fighting is so profound. It is the optimal way for us to bring peace to the world, enhance harmony in society, and maintain equilibrium in life.

The temple sits perched on the mountainside surrounded by lush forest. A pathway weaves through the jungle leading interested parties to various shrines. The whole area is filled with beautiful bromeliads, green shrubs, and hundreds of butterflies (hard to capture the amount in one shot).

Many young Taiwanese people avoid the main temple because ol’ Lu was known to be a jilted lover, so the resident God is rumored to split up unmarried couples.

After a light snack of shrimp rice and an espresso (yes, there is good coffee here!), I get back on the gondola for the journey to the top. The views of the Zhinan River valley are glorious.

The top of the mountain was bustling; loud music played from restaurants, people mingled in the many teahouses, and a steady stream of folks meandered down the road toward shrines and gift shops. I took a small path running beside the San Xuan Temple and made my way up the mountain by means of the never-ending staircase.

I lost count after about 500 stairs and kept climbing, it started to become more rugged and less clean. After aproximately the 1000-stair mark there was a little shelter, and my book told me that was where I head into the bush to find Yinhe Dong Pubu, the Silver Stream Waterfall. After all those stairs, I was heading straight down the other side of the mountain, jumping from rock to rock. I regret wearing my new flip-flops, I slip a couple of times, and start to feel a little lost. Then, I almost run in to the web of this colorful lady:

Research later tells me this must be Nephila pilipes, the golden silk spider. It has a strong web that has been used for making fabric. Its venom is toxic but not lethal to humans; of course, I did not know this at the time. There were many butterflies and other critters along my journey into the depths of the valley.

Just when I am starting to feel like this solo hike is a bad idea, I hear the cound of running water and come across a small river, my directions tell me to go downstream, so onward I march.

Day was fading, and no waterfalls in sight. In the future, I will not make these trips on my own. I soaked my sore feet in the river and then started the long journey back. The buzzing of the bugs almost hides the loud beating of my heart (just a bit scared) as I climb out of the mountain valley. Lots of mosquitoes. Back at the shelter I cracked the beer I had saved for the waterfall and relaxed before heading back down the near-endless stairs.

It felt like the day had been quite successful despite not finding the waterfall. But I probably shouldn’t hike alone in a strange land. The next day I was a little sore so I decided to head to Dire Gu (Hell Valley), the geothermal valley of Beitou (this would become one of my favorite spots in the country). It was time to soak my sore muscles in some hotsprings.

Though it may seem strange to head to this steamy valley when it is so hot outside, this place amazes me. On my second visit I played tour guide to some friends who had arrived in Taipei from a high school environmental conference.

The Beitou Thermal Valley covers 325 sq m (3500 sq ft), it is a deep valley that was created prior to the eruption of a nearby volcano. Though the water temperature in the crater is slightly higher than 90C, it is deemed not hot enough to sustain another eruption. Visitors used to be allowed to lean over the edge and cook eggs, but that is now forbidden. I guess boiled tourists are less than ideal. The hot spring in the valley is one of only two green sulfur springs in the world.

No, that is not algae. When the ground water mixes with volcanic gases it gets heavily acidified and contains a high concentration of chlorinated sulfate. The sediment settles into the cracks of rocks and after a long time, crystallizes, splitting the rocks into pebbles containing the rare mineral hokutolite. Most of it has been extracted by collectors. The green sulfur spring contains traces of radioactive matter called radium, rumored to have a magic effect for recreation, sanitarium, rehabilitation, and beauty. Might as well pipe it into some stone pools and let people soak it up!

This is the Beitou public hot springs. The pool at the top right is a scalding 48 C, I could not stay in there very long. Seems like that was for the seasoned veterans (old locals). As the water cascades down to the lower pools, it naturally cools: middle pool ~38 C, bottom left ~30 C. On my first visit, I wondered why the two clear pools in the front of the photo were so full of people. When I finally squeezed myself into one of them I discovered why they were so popular; they were filled with clear, cool water. I have no idea how they keep them so refreshing, maybe it just feels cool by comparison to the hot pools. On my next visit, I met a gaggle of ladies from Toronto who would have lived in those cool pools if given the chance.

Reflections on the journey thus far:

• You are only allowed to wear tight speedos in the public hot spring. No loos shorts allowed.
• I need to get a cell phone, everyone spends all their time staring at them. Should have bought one in Canada, they are not much cheaper here.
• Tie-dyed clothing is perfect for hiding sweat marks.
• The humidity here fogs up my camera, making it very hard to take good photos, especially since I do not have a viewfinder. Moisture droplets are starting to appear inside the camera, don’t think it is going to last.
• The employees at the hostel love English music, especially Leonard Cohen… I approve.
• It is vital to find an adventure partner so I don’t have to hike alone. Preferably a Taiwanese adventurer (if they exist).
• Never discount the rejuvenating powers of a cold beer and some Nina Simone after a grueling hike that has left every article of your clothing dripping with sweat.