Whatever you do, or dream you can, begin it. Boldness has genius, power, and magic in it.
So there I was, staying in a stranger’s house in the small town of Zhushan (竹山). It didn’t take me long to discover that there weren’t many other foreigners. In fact, strangers like myself were so rare that it wasn’t uncommon for locals to stop what they were doing, point at me with surprise, and yell “way-gwa-ren” (外國人), which means foreign person. Though, sometimes I think they were saying “may-gwa-ren” (美國人), which means American (person).
Who was I to correct them? Canada is in North America, so I suppose they weren’t wrong.
In all honesty, sometimes people – especially children – still point and yell this at me (or other foreigners). I suppose it’s one of the quirks of living in small towns; I don’t think it happens too much in the cities.
Learning to Ride
Anyway, to get around in Zhushan, Mia had allowed me the use of a scooter. She asked me if I knew how to drive one, and I assured her I did. In reality, I had never really done it before, but I was confident I would learn quite quickly. I did get a few raised eyebrows when I had to ask how to turn the scooter on (for those who don’t know: turn the key, hold the brake, and then press the ignition button).
To be clear, by scooter I mean a two-wheeled open motor vehicle with a whopping 125 CCs of pure power, not a foot-propelled children’s toy.
It turns out that I wasn’t wrong, and I was quite adept at driving around on 2 wheels even though it was my first time. The adventuring could fully commence!
Eventually, I bought my own scooter. I called it the Grey Pilgrim, and it served me VERY well for many years. Unfortunately, I didn’t think to take many good pictures of it, but it survived flying into a rice field, flipping down in a concrete ditch, towing a motorcycle and its driver out of the forest, and hauling all my brewing supplies.
After a while, I yearned for something more stylish and started looking at motorcycles. Shopping for one was quite an interesting experience. I had seen a few I liked on the street and at various shops and was about to make a purchase. That was when my boss told me she found out that Hartford Motorcycles had a showroom in the nearby city of Taichung (臺中市).
As it turned out, they were getting rid of their 2014 models to make room for the 2015s. So, we took a trip up there and looked around. I found one I liked for a great price, and they arranged to have it shipped to a dealer close to Zhushan.
I had never driven a motorcycle before, but I watched a quick video on how to change gears and only stalled a couple of times after picking it up.
Ready to set off.Parked at a local campsite.The bikes and James at one of our favorite hangout spots.
Given enough time, it’s not hard to start a bit of a collection.
Taken around 2019. Starting from the back left: LL’s scooter, my mom’s electric bike, the Grey Pilgrim, my friend Sam’s scooter, and my motorcycle.
A Surprise Guest
During one of my first nights in Zhushan, I had settled into the room I had been offered by Mia. The house belonged to her sister, Mandy, and Mia had gone away on a short trip, which she liked to do often. I turned off the lights, crawled into bed, and drifted off to sleep. After a while, I became aware of someone else in the room. In fact, there was actually someone else in bed with me.
A small body crept closer, and then eventually lay right on top of me.
Meet Perry. He is Mia and Mandy’s nephew. Unbeknownst to me, he often slept at Mandy’s house during the week because it was very close to his elementary school. When he did, he would use the room I had settled in. It turns out I would have a squirmy bed partner during my stay there.
Apart from occasionally sharing a bed, Perry and I would take walks to the playground, cook sausages in the toaster oven, and watch cheesy Taiwanese TV shows.
I would also become his English teacher at the buxiban for many years.
Class Is in Session
My days of freedom were coming to an end, and it wouldn’t be long before I would officially start work as an English teacher. I wondered about some sort of training or orientation, but I guess I had sold myself well enough with my resume that I was just going to be thrown straight into the classroom. My boss even asked me if I could help train the other new teacher, which I found a little strange considering I hadn’t done any actual teaching yet.
The school I started working at was called Tom Kindergarten (南投縣私立湯姆幼兒園). It can also be referred to as a nursery school because they look after young kids anywhere from 2 years old until they are ready to enter elementary school. I would work there from 9 am-3 pm Monday to Friday (with occasional weekend events). We would teach the kids English through a mixture of stories, crafts, various activities, and traditional bookwork (ABCs, phonics, etc.). We would also take them on monthly field trips.
It wasn’t hard to fall in love with these kids, and they seemed to enjoy having me around. I decided quite quickly that I would remain there for three years. That way, I could see my youngest students move on.
I soon noticed a flaw in my original plan; when one group of students ‘graduated‘ from the school, they were replaced by another. Each new class of youngsters was just as delightful as the last, and I found it hard to leave. My salary was decent, the work was enjoyable, and the students were adorable. In a way, I considered this a bit of training for when I was to become a parent. I got comfortable and remained at Tom Kindergarten for over seven years.
In July, the school year would end with a graduation for the children who were moving up to elementary school. Everyone would get dressed up and we would put on a big show for the parents. The children wore costumes, put on plays in English, and did various dances and musical performances.
At around 3 pm every day, I would head over to the buxiban and teach elementary-aged kids until 7 pm. These kids were not always the best behaved, but we still managed to have a little fun and learn something.
I will write more about schools, teaching, education, etc. in a separate post.
Better With Two
Both schools were quite large and had a lot of students, so even though I was teaching a lot every week (~30-35 classroom hours), the job was too big for just me. Mia had mentioned that I would have a coworker, and I didn’t have to wait long.
Emily arrived in Zhushan not long after I did, and she was also given a room in Mandy’s house. She is an American, and I believe this was her first big solo adventure away from her family. Seeing as we were the only two English-speaking people around, we spent our free time together.
Emily and I would often jump on the scooter and explore the local area. I would drive and she would sit on the back, relaxing and taking the occasional nap.
We enjoyed heading into the mountains to wander around the misty tea fields that are so plentiful in Nantou County (南投縣).
After a while, we grew tired of crashing at Mandy’s house (plus, I yearned for a bed without Perry). So, with the help of Mia, we began searching for our own accommodation.
Settling down doesn’t mean settling for less; it means finding where you’re meant to be.
Getting Up To Speed
Needless to say, a lot of time has passed since my last post. Life got in the way of my blog creation. Call it a New Year’s resolution if you like (though I’ve never been a fan of the practice), now I’m back to doing some of my own writing. When I logged back on to my blog, I was disappointed to find out that I had lost a lot of earlier draft posts about my travels in Europe as well as South and Central America. I will focus on my life in Taiwan for now and revisit the other adventures when I have time (and have reread my journals).
To catch up, I had been bumming around Taipei, a little unnerved from my attempt to camp in a typhoon and wondering what my next move would be; my plan had been to take my little tent around Taiwan before I departed. I moved to a cheap hostel where I could have a private room and plan my tour of the island. I had a flight to South Korea that left in three months because my original plan had been to go there and pursue my goal of becoming an ESL teacher.
Becoming An ESL Teacher In Taiwan
It wasn’t long before I realized that teaching English in Taiwan was not only a possibility, but it could also be quite lucrative. While the wages for an English teacher in Taiwan are not amazing, the cost of living is VERY reasonable – especially if you live outside of the cities.
I grabbed my laptop and started searching. I had already applied for jobs in South Korea and received many offers, so I knew my resume was fairly decent. It didn’t take long until I got some positive responses.
This county is directly in the center of Taiwan and is one of the only ones without a border on the ocean.
A Lovely Location
I did a little research into Zhushan before replying and was happy with what I saw. Its name (zhu 竹 + shan 山) roughly translates to bamboo mountain, and the name didn’t disappoint. The town was nestled in a valley surrounded by mountains containing vast tea fields, raging waterfalls, towering bamboo forests, and plenty of areas for hiking and exploring.
One of the major tourist attractions in this area is called the Zhushan Sky Ladder (竹山天梯). With 208 steps spanning 136 meters (446 ft), it is one of the biggest suspension bridges in the world (that has stairs).
I will write more about Zhushan, Nantou County, and the Sky Ladder in separate posts. For now, I will focus on my journey.
The person who offered me the job was named Mia Lee, and she would be quite influential in my early days (years) in Taiwan.
An Offer I Couldn’t Refuse
Mia said I could have the job if I wanted to. I would be working in a kindergarten in the mornings, and then in the afternoons at what is called a buxiban (補習班) or cram school. I told her I would love to take the job, but she was a little wary. She worried that a newly arrived foreigner would be lonely in a small town like Zhushan. So, she invited me to come down and spend a week there to determine if I could survive teaching in such a small place for a full year.
I had no problem with a small town; in fact, I preferred that setting to working in a big city (obviously, Mia wasn’t aware of Duncan—the town I grew up in). I graciously accepted her offer, packed my backpack, and jumped on the train heading south.
Map of Taiwan’s TRA (slow) rail system.The train journey can be quite scenic, passing coasts, farmland, mountains, jungles, etc.
Zhushan doesn’t have a train station, so I arrived at a town called Linnei (林內) in the bordering Yunlin County (雲林縣). Coincidentally, that is where my wife was raised and where we live at the time of writing.
Mia was there waiting for me. We loaded my gear into her car, and she drove to Zhushan. She brought me to her house and let me settle into an empty room. She told me she would take me to the school so that I could meet the teacher I was going to replace. Even though she was about to leave on a trip, she assured me that I could stay at her house and provided me with a scooter I could use to drive around town and explore.
I was amazed at the trust she was willing to show someone she had just met. It wouldn’t take me long to discover that this level of generosity and kindness isn’t uncommon in Taiwan.